London!!!!

I'm writing this on our last night so I have a whole week to talk about so I'll break it into a few sections...or are they bloggettes?

I'm SO pleased we set aside 7 nights for London. it's only given us 6 days as we arrived late last sunday and although our flight tomorrow is at 4.00 we have to be at Heathrow at 1.00 and there is some serious packing to be done. We brought a spare bag but we've also purchased another suitcase..between the Hamleys visit, Bruce's model trains (!), and a few handbags of mine and a few clothes it's starting to add up. Bruce has somehow lost a T shirt but that in no way compensates!!

Anyway.. Day one in London (Monday).
We have moved sleep patterns dramatically..all through the country it was early nights and reasonably early starts. In London we very rarely have left the house before 11.00 but it's been much later nights. I'm so grateful that Michael is a great sleeper and will sleep in if he is tired.

Once we got going we headed into town to the Tower of London..something I hadn't seen last time I was here and really wanted to. There was a wee drama at payment time..nearly every attraction we go to asks UK residents if they want go 'gift aid' their admission which gives the charity extra tax back (almost the opposite of the NZ scheme for donations). Sometimes the gifters receive extra benefits i.e. One years free entry. At the Tower (and a few other London attractions) they have a published price which includes a 'voluntary' donation - but the price board doesn't have the 'base price' clearly posted. I spotted this so asked for our admission without the donation. After signing the credit card I realized they had overcharged us. She then went to reverse it...and it charged us again! The staff member and her colleague couldn't work it out..so they referred it to their supervisor who worked 'downstairs' (wherever that is). So we were walked through the entry gates and told to come back afterwards and it would all be sorted.

The Tower is certainly worth the money and had something for each one of this wee family. The history and stories for me are fascinating and I really enjoyed the medieval section. The Tower has been around since William the Conquerer and the main building was done by Edward I of our Northern Wales castles fame. There are remains of some old Roman walls on the site...nothing seems new when it came to building fortifications in Great Britain.

I also enjoyed the jewels and even Michael can tell you about Royal Orbs. There is am impressive Armoury exhibition and while this was more interesting for Michael and Bruce than me it still was worth a browse.

We were lucky enough to come across some actors telling the story of...ooops I forget now..Edward ??? mysteriously died in the tower, his wife (who was one of the characters)and son and the succession from there.

We met up with Stuart later that night for dinner and that was nice to catch up. It was pretty late coming home- around 10.30- but Michael coped really well.

A brief look at the Peak District

On Saturday we made another early start and headed for the Peak District. We had lunch in Bakewell which was incredibly crowded and we would have loved time to browse and take photos but it was time to head for Chatsworth House. This was so so worth it. it was uses in pride and prejudice and more recently in filming the Duchess...the story of one of the previous and controversial Dushesses of Devonshire. The estate is open for walking and we had again another magical day weather wise so it was a gorgeous setting. the trees are starting to drop their autumn leaves so it made for some great photography. I knew nothing of the Devonshires and was really pleased I bought the guide book here as the history of the place and the people is really interesting. The first Duke gained the title when he chose the 'right' side in what is known as the Glorious Revolution when James II who was catholic was replaced by German William and Mary (I can't remember if Mary was also German) who both had claims to the English throne. Subsequently we have been to Hampton Court and went through Williams's rooms there and learnt alot more about him...but that is another story. The Gardens at Chatsworth are gorgeous and both the house and gardens include some spectacular (and some not) works of art. The family of today are still collecting so it is an alive collection. The gardens include some really interesting gravity run water features which we made sure we got out to see before they were switched off at 5.30.

So after a lovely day we headed for the B&B and somewhere for dinner. We wanted to go to the 'illuminations' and fireworks in Matlock Bath but there's was just no where to park so we had to give up and go home which was a real pity. Matlock Bath is a Victorian spa town in the middle of a gorge almost and so the hills rise spectacularly either side. The river Derwent runs through the middle and during the illuminations nooks and crannies are lit and boats are floated through with different themes. The next morning we had a quick walk through Matlock Bath and it was so so cold being in the valley we left pretty quickly and headed for the Crich Tramway museum. Bruce was pretty impressed with this so again...train and tram buffs...talk to him for details. Then the what seemed like an endless search for our last country pub lunch...and we ended up at the Devonshire Arms on the Chatsworth Estate...Very very nice!

So we started the journey to London. Our plan was to arrive at a good time, dump our gear, return the car at Victoria and jump on a train to Hampton Court to visit my friend Rachael who I had lost contact with a found again thanks to facebook. Time started to run away..we found the house Ok and it is Amazing! It is truly everything on the website and absolutely perfect for the three of us. But then then trip to Victoria to drop the car. For some reason the GPS wouldn't find the address...operator error I'm sure (me) 'cause I've always worked it on post code and we had the wrong postcode...but we found and we're still married!! After ringing Rachael and Ralph we decided we were too late and rescheduled, sober enjoyed a wee explore and some trains and and a dinner near Leicester Square.

Our last day in Yorkshire

Friday was our last day in yorkshire and we intended to travel toward the coast. I really wanted to go to Castle Howard and Bruce wanted to go to Whitby on the coast. After a slow start we plotted a course that would take us accrues the Yorkshire moors and had THE most frustrating journey! We kept coming up to road blocks that had diversions... And then the diversion signs ran out and most frustratingly the road we wanted was the A road that ran directly to the coast!! After we talked to a highways staff member - who said yes he knew the signs were wrong but 'head office wouldn't listen' we found a route. For a wee highlight it took us past the white horse in the fields and when i sort photos I'll pop that up 'cause it's pretty cool.

So after travelling for 1.5 hours to get about 15 miles we had to skip Castle Howard and headed for Whitby on the coast. it was raining ( and out came the rain pants) but it isms very attractive town on the sea and we managed to find a pub with river views to eat whitby fish and chips and drink bad wine. They serve wine out of taps here like beer!!

There was a World war two weekend on the Saturday at a town we passed by on the way to the coast and we saw lots of people dressed up in period dress there and also in Whitby. The rain dropped off so it was an opportunity to go for a stroll along the sea wall. This was a particularly spectacular one.

We explored the coast a bit more heading down to Robin Hood bay (small, steep and cute) and then Scarbourough(huge but possibly worth a proper visit) and then back to the cottage for a wee chill out before our final Yorkshire dinner at a local pub. We really enjoyed this wee cottage with it's space and views plus all the windey lanes and it would be an awesome base for a longer time in Yorkshire...but take a coffee plunger or stove top espresso!!!

York - or is it Yorvic??

We had an awesome day in York. Paid the most we ever have for parking
(£2 per hour) maybe that car park outside of the city walls would have been better after all! Just briefly on parking - everything we had read and had been told was that parking is a nightmare everywhere in the UK and to use park and rides for places like Bath, York and St ives. One of the advantages of this time of year is the crowds have definitely gone and while sometimes parking has been challenging and certainly costly - we've done OK.

We headed straight to Yorvic which is an award winning museum/experience intended to give you an idea of what it was like to live in Yorvic. It developed from some archeological discoveries when they have found significant remains of Viking occupation of York and York has a particular type of peaty earth that preserved wood and fabrics that allowed this very specific information gathering. The experience centers on a moving 'ride' through this recreated town and once Michael saw that he had to go now and in retrospect (at least for me) we should have stayed longer in the first room which had lots of interesting information. Anyway - the experiential ride was cool and they had a special kids commentary version for Michael. Another aside..every museum or attraction has some special for kids and to varying extents of quality but they all try.

We found the shambles and took lots of photos - this is an absolutely gorgeous street of shops that was, if my memory serves me correctly, butcher shops. Had a wee lunch there at a tea shop and then on to have a look at Minster from the outside. This is certainly magnificent. We then split up and the boys went to the Train Museum ( so all you buffs will have to ask them..i would have been so bored) and I browsed the shops. we finished the museum packed day with a very very quick run through the Castle Museum. Sadly although York still has city walls (that you can walk...but if you want to walk city walls go to Conwy) the castle was demolished hundreds of years ago. the site became a prison and as part of the museum you can see the old prison and read about the experiences of the prisoners. They have an impressive Victorian street and it is worth a visit if you are in York.

Rather than deal with end of the day traffic we fed the meter a bit more (it was £2 for the evening now) and strolled along the river. Made another visit to the Minster...the boys went ahead of me as I got distracted with a handbag shop... So by the time I got there they had bought tickets but I just looked at what you could see for free inside and listened to the choral service which was going on at the time. Of course with a very formal Church of England style it's nothing like we worship but it's certainly very beautiful.

Yorkshire - varying landscapes and so much to do

Yorkshire has so much to do and see and is definately an area I would love to return to. Our cottage was lovely with rural views and you could see the church spire from the local village accrues the fields. We enjoyed an awesome Indian dinner at one of the local pubs ..they pub owners lease out the kitchen so they don't have to operate it - and after our bad Indian meal experience in the Cotwolds this was a delight. The range to order is different here and they bring dips for the poppodoms but watch out -we've found this with Thai as well - they charge you for the rice! So we did end up spending much more than when we go to the Indian Kitchen at home but it was an awesome meal.

One of the things I really wanted to see in the area was at least one of the abbey ruins so we went to Fountains abbey which was near where we were staying. It is absolutely magnificent and worth much more time than we were able to give it. We joined a free tour at the beginning which I found fascinating but Michael was bored ( understandably so) so we dropped off and just explored. We didn't have time to even look at the water gardens - these are a more recent addition to the property - so - I hope- another time! But of course Michael got a play on the play ground. Then it was off to Harrogate with two objectives in mind.
1. jennings Photo store for a spare battery and sd card for me and a camera strap for Bruce (his broke and in a lucky moment he saved his camera)
2. bettys tea rooms for an elegant lunch.

ell we achieved the second first and it was well worth it. I knew about Bettys from
both guides and recommendations and as there are a few I wanted to go to the original rather than the more well known York one. Having now seen the York one that was an good choice as the harrogate looks out to a lovely park. Bettys founder was Swiss and as they say combination of his Swiss attitude to food and Yorkshire warmth really works. The food is great as is the coffee and wine. By now I've given up on flat whites and decided to go for a pot of filter coffee and as it was very good my caffeine needs were sorted for the day. Our cottage was nice but simple therefore no coffee plunger so it was tea at the house.

We ended up spending the rest of the afternoon shopping which was nice and pleasant then back to another local pub for dinner.

More magnificence

Monday morning was beautiful...when I popped my head out the window the lake was glorious and the sunlight on the top of the hills gave them a real golden look. We were so so blessed with such incredible weather in this area known for it's tendency to rain rain and rain. So we headed off for Keswick to take a boat ride (making many photo stops along the way) but first went to the amazing Castlerigg Stone Circle which was pretty cool (oh and yes it was chilly too). Then after dealing with the confusing traffic diversion we found our way to Keswick and wandered through the town drafting for the lake. None of these towns appear to be built on the lake - they are all at the head of the lake if at all. So we found it and enjoyed a nice lunch in the tea rooms with the 'automatic piano' by the lake
(Derwenter) then we jumped on the boat, went a few stops and jumped off again to take a lovely lovely walk along side the lake. I have to say that this was one of the most pretty walks I have ever done and it was a nice easy flat stroll. Then back on the boat...and back to the car park before the money ran out( a bit of a repeating theme). Conveniently we were parked right next door to two museums. The Pencil Museum (did you know the pencil was invented in Keswick???) and the James Bond Museum. With only time to do one..of course it was James Bond and that was nice because even though we have watched very little TV there was a channel we watched in the early evening sometimes in Conwy that showed family appropriate movies and Michael had really enjoyed watching an old James Bond with daddy..so as this museum had an impressive collection of cars he really liked it. They also showed movie clips of some of the car chases so that rounded off our hour long visit. We then went for a very windy and narrow road drive over the hills to Buttermere to look at another lake and of course in Bruce's endless search for the perfect photo. The drive itself was stunning as was the lake and it was a pity as it was well the end of the day that we didn't have time to potter through the village and have an ice cream. We didn't really want to be on those roads after dark so headed back another way over the Honiston Pass
( I think I spelt that correctly??) and passed another mine museum ( we haven't made it into any of then and would really have liked to) and enjoyed a nice drive up the base of Derwenter and back to Keswick for fish and chips.

Tuesday morning and the view out the window was so different. You couldn't see the lake due to the mist but we were assured by our hosts that this was a good thing and it would be an incredible day. So we packed up the car, wrapped up really warm and walked over to the lake and then walked all the way around it to Grasmere village. What a glorious day. It was so peaceful and we saw a few people on stools painting and passed lots of people walking the other way. I would think that like most places in England the beauty would be hampered by the crowds - we have been so fortunate in his holiday to be able to enjoy so much in a relativity uncrossed way. Our host said it should take 40 minutes to reach the village from the B&B but we were travellings pace and I don't know how many 100's (if not 1000) photos Bruce took on that walk. So after a stop to buy some very famous and very nice Grasmere Gingerbread we jumped in the car and headed for Ambleside for lunch. This is Granny and Granpops favourite town so we thought we should at least visit. Again another very elegant and not too pricy lunch sitting outside in the sun and a little shopping and then off to Yorksire.

The magnificent Lake District

I've been very behind in my blogging...this holidaying business is hard work!!!! Our plan on Sunday leaving Conwy was to get away early so we could explore the Lakes District as soon as we could
...and those who know us well will be surprised to hear that we did it and were in Bowness on Windemere by around 12.30!!! Lake Windemere is the most crowded of the lakes and thank goodness I took the advise of those on Trip Advisor and we weren't staying there. The town (Bowness) was SO crowded..Bruce even asked someone if there was an event on -but no- it was a quiet weekend! The weather was amazing! Everywhere we go the discussion is always of the weather and to be fair to the English I think that is to some extent that we are tourists and good weather helps. We were truly blessed in the Lakes District and you will all love the photos. Unfortunately we are having I pad import issues so I can't post any right now so that may have to wait until we get home...but watch this space in case we find a solution. Back to the Lakes...we were fortunate to find a car park really close. You pay for car parking everywhere here and we are constantly saving coins for both tipping and car parks. Then after sussing out the boat options we headed into the crowded but pretty town for lunch. Following some signs to the 'old town' we found a nice looking 'pub' that had outdoor seating and was in our price range. Dining outside without heaters in October..fantastic!! And after the very ordinary wine experiences in Conwy (bar the Castle) we felt like we had come home-good wine and good food. As seems incredibly common here and I think I have seen it more North than South people bring there dogs, sit outside,and the waiters fill dog bowls with water for the dogs. I've often seen dog bowls with water just ready in public areas for passing dogs. So after a civilized lunch we took a 40 minute boat trip on Windermere. My camera battery died...why DID I not buy a second one..so most of the shots will be Bruces!!! That was a lovely trip if a little chilly on top but worth it for the views.

From a literary perspective in the Lakes there are the Poets (most famously Wordsworth) and Beatrix Potter. I've never been a Beatrix Potter fan and while we had some of her books I never read them to Michael nor read them myself as a child- they just never appealed to me. But I do enjoy the stories when told in plays and think her illustrations are lovely. We didn't go to Hilltop her home (an excuse among many for a return to the Lakes) but we did go to the Beatrix Potter experience in Bowness which is a lovely walk through of characters and stories added with a few movies and a garden. I don't think it is a must visit and they could have made it more interactive. I think Bruce enjoyed it the most of all of us as there was lots to photograph but Michael enjoyed it too. As I'm recalling this I remember the staff member at the entry and it Isn't that she was rude but she was efficacy and lacked warmth and this was contrary to so many of the attractions we have been to. Many of them have mastered at least to sone extent the art of welcoming visitors and especially children. Often Michael receives a special welcome so for a child focused attraction that has won awards I think they can do better.

After that we were not at all tempted to spend in the shop- too expensive and it was off to the car before the car parking ran out. Then a nice wee drive to Grasmere to our B&B with it's primo position looking out to Lake Grasmere. Much better than crowded Windermere. We were over the road from the lack and a little noisy but still sleepable and we just had to be very very careful crossing the road to the lake. I went for lovely peaceful early evening walk down the end of the lake and it's incredibly beautiful as the trees are all turning and you are walking through golden autumn leaves - which I'm sure would lose it's romance in the slush of winter.

Finally another castle and an attempt at another railway

You may have noticed the lack of castles yesterday (except for returning home to one every night). I had visions of two castles on Saturday bit Bruce of course wanted to go up Mt Snowdonia on the rack railway. So we drove to Llanberis and discovered that due to high winds they were only going part way up and not letting you out - a wee waste of £18 per adults we thought. So we wondered through the Welsh Slate museum..which was quite interesting. Oh the conditions that men lived and worked in and those that got wealthy were the English landowners. I don't understand why nationalism didn't happen in wales to the extent that it did in Ireland.





Then it was off to Caernafon which is a magnificent castle. This is a royal home as well as a defensive castle and is larger than Conwy. There was a very interesting exhibition on the history of how the castle has been preserved because some of the castles of the same era are truly is ruins. of course we have not always understood or valued the history of these pieces of historical treasure. in the 1800's it became to be regarded as important and there were various attempts at reservation and/or restoration. There were photos of the town streets and of buildings right up against or even built into the walls and over the years these have been removed or destroyed. The city walls in Conwy are much better preserved but like our wee cottage have structures right against them. I think some can be sympathetic because they reflect the centuries of use I.e the migration to fishermen cottages.

Dinner was very average again in a local pub. We didn't expect extensive wine lists but something more than cask wine would be nice!! The wine quality in all the pubs we have visited has varied from awful to sone nice if not extensive choices. I just wish I drank beer and then I would be happier but I have enjoyed local
Ciders and sometimes just drink gin and tonic to keep the piece. To not completely disparage the dining scene in Conwy - we had an excellent if pricey meal at The castle which is a hotel/restaurant/pub in the High Street.



The slate stone you can see in the foreground of this photo is where Prince Charles was inaugurated Prince of Wales.





View from one of the many towers. I got a bit 'towered out' but of course Michael wanted up them all...Bruce was complaining about sore legs the next day.

More castles... And a railway or two

Friday was the start of a very special weekend for lovers of steam trains. The Ffestinigg Railway was having a three day special event...sonic course we had to go. the next decision was where to catch it from so we went up to Blaenau Ffestiniog as we thought the parking would be easier. Good decision! It was a slightly tense journey up and we made the odd wrong turn, had to stop for diesel, and got stuck behind slow cars and road works -but it was all good. We could have been super greenies and caught the standard train from Conwy but one can survive only so many trains in one day! At the station...who should we bump in to...but our neighbours Mary and Graeme from our street who have been touring Europe in their combi van since March!! Mary is an incredible wife...they had bought the three day pass for the event so it was three days of train rides and walks in the area for them. The mountains at Blaennau are amazing..full of loose slate as Wales was and still a huge slate mine area (most of them have closed). One of the cool things we saw as we came up in the train was a slate train going down. This is a train with NO engine and just small carriages (this is a narrow gauge railway) carrying slate...and men sitting on each carriage working the brakes.









Have a look at the mustiness in the back of this photo (oh and the train if you like). This is typical of the light we have seen further north..really frustrating given the lack of clarity but it has it's own particular beauty. It tends to burn off and be clearer in the afternoon. Ok...some more train photos to keep the enthusiasts happy















and of the slate hills...



We then travelled back down via Betwys-y-Coed which is where our hosts live and a very very nice village about 20 miles from Conwy. It was way busier than Conwy and a lot more touristy with a very green look mixed with the gorgeous stone buildings. And...yes...a model train museum and shop. Nothing more to say really.

Castles and railways... the start

We spent four lovely nights in Harbour View Cottage. Thursday was spent pottering around Conwy..it was an incredibly beautiful day and after a slow start (enjoying having our own space a bit more after 6 nights of B&B) we walked the walls



and then we explored the castle. This was quite different to Ludlow..smaller and clearly a strategic castle. it is part of a ring of castles built by Edward I when he was conquering the welsh. It was built really quickly and was originally washed white which would have been quite spectacular. I found getting the towers easier than Ludlow - they have maintained the stairs - but Michael terrified me going up and down the narrow circular towers -no fear!!! The views are amazing and it is so special to be able to experience all this history. We then bought pies, cheese,cold meats and bread from the very very good local deli and had lunch back at the cottage.






. I haven't put on tons of weight..that is the way this browser is importing the photo!

We felt is was important to be real tourists and fill the entire day up so late afternoon we headed over to llandundo (hope I've spelt that right) which is a Victorian resort town with an old fashioned entertainment pier (but none of the rides were going at 4.00pm..poor Michael) so we strolled the pier and the Promenade. We didn't go on the Victorian Tram up the Great Orme ( a huge hill at the end of the peninsula) and I'm sure the tram enthusiast in the family (Granpop) will be disappointed. Then back to Conwy and one of our less exciting evening meals..the pubs in Conwy are really quite poor at food and wine choices.

The start of Northern Wales and Victorian Engineering brilliance

On Wednesday after leaving Ludlow we entered wales(again). There are no 'welcome to Wales' signs which I kind of expected on the main roads but at least our maps told us. We were heading for Llangollen which I can kind of pronounce now and this town on it's own is worth a stay of a few nights...we only had a few hours. Two features we were particularly looking for was the Steam Railway (of course!) and the famous Pontcyselite (I've typed that about three times and still think i have it wrong) Aqueduct built by Thomas Telford and opened in 1805. After a bit of getting lost we walked across the aqueduct. Michael again with no fear which terrified me alot and we saw canal boats traveling back and forth. Awesome!





Michael bought a book on Dragonology which has proved to be excellent value...he desperately wants to shop and spend money and is struggling to make
'good value' purchases so this is a good one for him
£3.99!!!

When then drove from there and arrived in spectacular Conwy. This is the most gorgeous walled town and showed itself off brilliantly in the quiet of a peaceful and yes warm (!) pre evening. Our hosts Mitch and Karen (names are are starting to blur) were there to greet us and show us through the house including -most importantly for Michael-how the TV works!!! The cottage is right up against the city walls and has views out over the harbour..I'm so pleased I chose the most expensive cottage in Conwy! (and it wasn't overly expensive..if I find how much i'll pop it up).

This is it in the early evening light. We seem to be having problems e mailing photos folks...so until we sort it...family you are going to have to look synthesis blog for now.

Reflecting on Ludlow

It's been some days since I've written. I'm sitting in our lovely outdoor area in Conwy- the city walls behind me and over our front wall is the sea. We'll definately have to post some photos of our gorgeous wee Harbour View cottage. Now...back to Ludlow. The Ludlow Town House is awesome. It's not for those who want absolute privacy as it is part of a family home but the bedrooms are so so spacious and comfortably elegant. Karen is such an easy host and like almost everyone we meet she had NZ connections. Her daughter lives in Christchurch and her mum in Sydney so they are journeying to NZ later this year. Michael was getting a little used to a 'menu' driven cooked breakfast so we had to tell him to politely give the good sized meal (on top of great cereals, bread and preserves) a go. Bruce had already told Karen he doesn't eat cooked...so boring!!! Karen nicely let us leave our car parked outside her place while we explored Ludlow which is known for it's lovely Tudor wooden houses and of course the castle. The town is also developing a bit of a foodie reputation...it has two Michelin starred restaurants but I'm not so sure if the rest of the town is catching up - however the Thai Restaurant Karen sent us to for dinner was excellent. We took lots of photos and I played with my new camera...but photos on the blog are all Bruce's - I haven't downloaded any of mine yet. Then it was on to Ludlow castle. It's funny you don't see it for miles like many castles but once you get in and up it you see why it is built where it is. Michael just loved his first castle (well that he had been in) and he ran and explored. The amount of 'be careful's I'm losing count of ...he seems to be at an age with no fear (except for Doctor Who exhibitions).




These photos are of the Feathers Hotel..Karen thinks it's the most beautiful building in England.









Then it was off to Wales....

Added to Bath and Cotwolds

I've added some text and photos to both areas for all those who have already read those posts......

A long travelling day

Yesterday was a long drive from Looe to Ludlow. Given we journeyed into Wales although briefly we stopped in Monmouth for lunch and it was outstanding at the Bridge House. Then there was a shopping trip in hereford for camera gear which I think I have already mentioned and miraculously Bruce found a model train store....mmmm. Ludlow is lovely and it is nice not to be in a tourist town. This B&B is another wee treat with amazing rooms and you should see the shower! Off for breakie now....

A few days in Looe

I had never heard of Looe until I started planning this holiday and i'm so pleased I discovered it! Looe is made up of West and East Looe which are separated by the river and joined by the medieval bridge
(or a 40p ferry ride if the tide is up). The two towns used to be separate villages but are now considered one. We were lucky enough to have chosen a B&B on the East side and if you poked your head out the window and looked past the church...there was the sea. A perfect location and a wonderfully warm welcome. Even though Michael was previously rating the Old vicarage as his favourite...he loved this place both because of location and the fantastic hosts Debra and Allan. They have only owned the place 16 months and deserve to do well. After wondering through Looe for the morning and playing on the beach









We then went on a glorious boat ride to Polperro on an old lifeboat. Polperro has a harbour protected by a sea lock unlike Looe which is a tidal river protected by sea walls, rocks and the banjo pier. Why is it called a banjo pier??? The boatman Michael was telling us about how rough the seas can get- he says there is a spring tide coming this weekend and the water may come up into the town. Such extremes.








Then there was the disastrous dropping of the camera...it just slipped out of my hand! serious duh! At least we will be able to recover the photos off the stick at home...so the I pad found us a chain of photo stores and conveniently there was one in Hereford on the way to
Lille. So I'm now the proud owner of a Canon Power shot sX30IS. (for those that care). I had never updated any of my Sony photos onto I pad so all the photos hounded are Bruce's but you might see some of mine now. We also contributed to the British economy with Bruce's purchase of a new lens for his SLR as his autofocus has broken so he's been doing an incredible job manually. He'll get his other lens fixed back home so this new one does different things...that is about as much technically as I remember!

Garden, Eco tourism, failed experiment reinvented or just a magnificent place?

I think it is all of these things and it depends in what interests and what is important to you. i did feel a bit preached at but in a practical way. Bruce tells me a story of a failed and half hidden from the medial experiment about having people living in the bubbles but we can't find anything to back that up. It is undeniably an awesome attraction and well elegy a visit. I was bored after a few hours... In my view there are only so many plants you can look at but others will spend a day at least.





This was our last few hours before we travelled to gorgeous Looe and the the incredibly welcoming Sea Breeze Guest house. We are meters from the sea wall here which is where our car is parked and even though we (Bruce) had to drag suitcase up two flights it was much easier than St Ives.

St Ives to Looe....choices choices choices

Too much to see and certainly not enough time! We left Si Ives...and the very average Carlyon Guest House (where the owners are lovely but bed is not) and headed for the Roseland and for a wee hamlet called St Just on Roseland. We discovered hrs most peaceful church down a hill on the water surrounded by bush, shrubbery and graveyard. The graveyard is peppered with scripture and quotes and to add to the.
'niceness' there was a service on at the time so organ music was playing.






We then moved down the road to St Mawes to lunch but stopped briefly at the castle (tudor)which we all would have loved to have gone through but we didn't have time. If it had been National Trust and not English Heritage we would have popped in for a short while as National Trust is free for us ( we joined NZ heritage before we left home).



After a lovely deli style lunch (we're finding food is pretty good here if you choose well) we moved on to the Eden project.

Photos...finally

I found an App last night that helps me upload photos so watch this space and some more photos will appear on previous posts.




These photos are of St Ives

St Ives...magical place ( off season!!!)

On Saturday we enjoyed a lovely morning in St Ives just strolling around the shops,taking photos, walking on the beach and exploring the harbour. Michael had a ball....especially as we were staying in such a small place and he couldn't run around like he prefers. We had lovely baguette sandwiches on the harbourside which meant we could spend a bit more on a lovely fish dinner that night. In the afternoon we jumped in the car and wrapped up warm and headed for Lands End to experience done true English tacky tourism and go for a walk. The highlight was the Doctor Who experience and Michael was suitably scared and I was ....a little. I certainly wasn't going anywhere near the Dalek.






Of course Lands End scenery was pretty awesome as well . then back to St Ives for a drink in a pub and a nice book time (actually Bruce was trying to get Michael to write his journal and postcards....neatly)

As I'm writing this (in Looe) we have found Sarah Jane adventures on TV....oh I wish this was in NZ! (It's a Doctor Who spinoff for the uninitiated)

Yes...it rains in England!

Luckily we had listened to the Weather forecast and got all our photos of the vicarage and church done the night before. so...on Friday ( I'm writing this a few days later) we left Morwentow and headed to Bude. It's really hard to have a good impression of a town in the rain so I think Bude deserves aa revisit. in retrospect there is a well regarded museum there which we should have explored...and that would have been dry!! never mind...we're kiwis and don't mind the rain (apparently....).We then headed for Boscastle which, then I think of it, I may have stopped at with Sarah and Steph Many years ago. I discovered that Thomas Hardy met and courted his wife here and am thinking it may be time to revisit my love of Hardy's novels. It was only raining lightly but thy the time we walked down this awesomely cute harbour to the sea...we were wet through. so a quick stop at the outdoor store solved that problem and we are now all the proud owners of geeky rain overtrousers. In this country everyone knows someone who has lived in or does live in NZ...this man's daughter works as a photographer for the Sunday Herald. the original plan was to go to Tintagel but it was just tok miserable so we did the food pilgrimage to Padstow...and instead of Rick Steins's fish and chips spent a bit more and went to his cafe. SO worth the money...what a lovely meal. I made an attempt at asking for a flat white which they were more than happy to try...but it was really a large machiato but it tasted awesome. then after drying off we headed for St Ives..where we checked in to our very average guest house..but I have said that before.

The Old Vicarage

we stayed Friday night at the Old Vicarage in Morwenstow. we found this place through the Sawdays guide and it truly was something special. SO worth the extra money (£100) but Michael has his own room. it is a Victorian gothic building that RJ Hawker built as his vicarage when he moved to Morwentow. He was a bit of an eccentric and a poet and very very dedicated to his parish in Morwenstow. the photos on the B&B's website just don't do the place justice...it is just so magnificent. It looks out over the hills to the sea and in just down from the church. Michael was a little scared when we went up and walked around the church at there were heaps of ravens around and they are pretty noisy and mysterious. As I said we each had our own rooms. ours looked out into the garden and what I think was the stables. Both were huge and we had the most magnificent bathroom with shower and slip bath. Michael's had a see view and was a sooooooo pretty...I know he didn't appreciate it. We had dinner at the 14th century Bush Inn which is a short walk nearby and very very nice. Luckily we had brought torches 'cause it was pitch black on the walk basic....fantastic! This is a must visit just for the experience and we only wish the weather had been better so we could sew the views better.

Cotswolds to Morwenstow

Well...we've had a few days without Internet. Today we have arrived at St Ives ( more on that later) and are settled at our very 3 star guest house...nothing flash but right in St Ives with parking included..bonus!! Now...the days before. We left Chalford and headed down the M5 and took aside turn at Taunton and drove up the Somerset coast. We stopped at a lovely Cleve Abbey to take photos but didn't go in (cheapskates that we are!!!)and then then had lunch in a sweet hamlet called Selworthy which had the most gorgeous thatched cottages with yellow walls. I'm loving this tea house thing..delicate little rooms and you are served at the table. The meals are generally ploughmans, sandwiches or baked potatoes and if you are lucky plunger coffee. This village was up a hill ( I'm becoming a little bit fitter!!)and had the most lovely view from the top where there was the most unusual white church. When I can find a web link with good photos I'll post one.
This is Cleve Abbey



And this is Selworthy